Story by Metta Archilla-Ishida
Photos by Patricia Hudson
Duck n Bao owner, Darren Ren, is a remarkable man from humble beginnings. As a son, Darren was raised in the Chinese tradition that necessities were to be appreciated, despite the absence of luxury items, such as chocolate or candy. Nutritious foods were in abundance, and he learned core life values through hard work and the expectation of independence.
An endearing and nostalgic memory for Darren rests in the gentle hands of his grandmother. She would greet her grandson after boarding school each Sunday afternoon, with a warm, comforting plate of Spam, sunny-side up eggs, rice and homemade pickles. 
Darren recalls, “It was AMAZING. This taught me to appreciate simple foods.”
Darren’s palate for good, flavor-laced food expanded as he became a young man, unfolding the story of his own life. He remembers his first steak in New Zealand, and devouring every bite. This meal was the catapult in Darren’s journey. Realizing that appetite equaled taste, he began to trek through the world, blending tastes and flavors.
Darren named his first restaurant, Mad House BBQ, a spin-off from his favorite all-time eatery, Crazy Noodle House. Darren recalls, “It was an HK style cafe. They made this boneless pan-fried chicken thigh that was amazingly crispy and flavorful. It was my favorite spot.”
“I’ve always been interested in food and the joy it brings people. It’s our most basic instinct as human beings,” explains Darren. A fun fact about Darren is that Chef Gordon Ramsey is his iconic culinary hero. Darren acknowledges watching his shows for hours a day, studying, absorbing and understanding Chef’s implied standards of food quality. Fast forward many years, and Darren now has four restaurants of his own: Mad House BBQ – Suva, Fiji, Mad BBQ – Christchurch, New Zealand, (currently managed by his cousin), Duck n Bao – Katy, and Duck n Bao – Cypress.
“Why Cypress?” I ask. His answer? “The people!” When Darren began studying the demographics of the northwest and surrounding areas, he recalls meeting a few of the most welcoming of folks right here in Cypress, Texas. Darren says, “I love being near the country, fresh air and elbow room, and I had a feeling Cypress would welcome an authentic Chinese restaurant to the area.” Thus, was born, Duck n Bao – Cypress.
Let’s talk Duck n Bao food! Darren radiates with pride that his exemplary Chinese descent Chef of 20 years, makes a phenomenal traditional Peking Duck. One can only hope a same day call-ahead is enough to reserve a Peking Duck. Did you know that Peking Duck takes days to craft? The traditional process of drying the skin and preserving the duck just perfectly is an art. The result is a delicacy of balanced flavors. Beautifully golden crisp duck skin lends textural balance to an explosion of soft duck fat and tender meat that pairs perfectly with the offering of thin, hand-patted crepes, a smear of house-made plum sauce, a crunch of cucumber and sprinkle of raw sugar. Trust me here, ok? Sugar? Plum Sauce? Yesssssss, please. There is just something so satisfying about this actual combination of fatty sweet savory duck bite that will have you vying for more.
The Soup Dumplings, (Xiao Long Bao), are another Duck n Bao specialty. Y’all y’all y’all! Sooooooooo incredibly warming. Hand crafted to order, and not a minute before. Duck n Bao Soup Dumplings induce eye rolling to the back of your skull and involuntary noises from deep within your soul. Eat this in one slurp so as not to waste a single drop of broth. Allow the dumpling to slide into your mouth, close your lips tight, bite in, and allow the interior soup to burst and wash over your palate. Savor this rich broth as I do, by closing your eyes and relishing the warmth of the moment.
A cherished favorite of our table is the Spicy Boiled Fish. This, and the Mapo Tofu are so very hard for me to share. The flaming flavors of Szechuan captivate my tongue, and I just can’t stop. I want more and more. You can’t let the intimidating array of dry chili peppers, peppercorns, doubanjiang and other rich flavors derail this Mala experience. Authentic Szechuan style cuisine is spicy, numbing, hot, aromatic and tender. Living on the edge folks!
I figured these few dishes were the house wonders of this new-to-Cypress eatery. Nope. Could not be further from the truth. Expect dish after platter, after bowl of intense, unique flavors, the freshest meat and vegetables, and a vast range of incredible dishes and recipes you’ve never even seen.
Duck n Bao will continue their Soft Opening phase for several more weeks. Darren is thankful that Cypress and the surrounding area patrons have been patient in providing critical feedback which is beneficial in understanding staffing and the rhythmic needs of the front of the house. Duck n Bao will be hosting a Grand Opening sometime in early February.
Duck ’n Bao – Cypress
17333 Spring Cypress Rd. • Suite H • Cypress, TX 77429
832-653-7572 • ducknbao.com
Days/Hours of Operation: Monday – Sunday: 11am-10pm
